Internal signs of a solid built amp?

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SQBubble
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Postby SQBubble » Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:24 pm

hey eezip,

what do you think personnaly about this amplifier when looking at the internals?


http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/USAmps_Merlin_MD.3D/


lot of talk says it can do 2400rms (rated at 2000rms)
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Postby Derek » Sun Dec 03, 2006 8:02 pm

how the hell did i miss this thread the first time?


kickass info.
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eezip
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Postby eezip » Sun Dec 03, 2006 9:25 pm

SQBubble wrote:hey eezip,

what do you think personnaly about this amplifier when looking at the internals?


http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/USAmps_Merlin_MD.3D/


lot of talk says it can do 2400rms (rated at 2000rms)


SQBubble, first of all, 3 fuses at 40A each and a generous 14.4V isn't even 1800W so it can't do 2400W. It might put out 2400W dynamic [peak].

BTW, the measurement for Watts in intrinsically RMS. If Watts is to be expressed in any other form than RMS, like dynamic [peak], it should be specified but the unit WRMS is redundant. Anyway...

There are some things that look good about the amp - the general power flow looks fine. I can't figure out why there are 4 big toroids around the output stage. I assume this is a class D amp, but even if it's a full bridge there should only be 2 inductors or 2 if the inductors are wound on a common core in a 2nd stage filter. They could be using some topology I'm not familiar with. Or the output filter could be more than 2nd stage. In this day and age, I find absolutely no reason to use more than 2nd order output filters and that's in agreement with some well respected engineers. Class D amps with second order filters can perform amazingly well [see Hypex/UcD, IR's demo amps, and many others out there] and it's much easier to close a loop around a 2nd order filter. Then you have the parts savings, board space savings, and less tolerance stack up in 2nd order filter's favor as well. But back to the subject; I don't really know what I'm looking at. The pictures aren't detailed enough to make a very good judgment so take everything I've said with a grain of salt. Sorry, but it's not easy to render a verdict with very little information.
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SQBubble
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Postby SQBubble » Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:49 am

eezip wrote:SQBubble, first of all, 3 fuses at 40A each and a generous 14.4V isn't even 1800W so it can't do 2400W. It might put out 2400W dynamic [peak].




That is exactly what I thought!! My lanzar optidrive 1400d has 4x30amp and is rated 800rms....

That's why I'm confused...

Also, the MD2D has the same fuse(3x40amp) and is a step below the MD3D...

I don't know if it's a new type of technology that uses less amp to produce more power or if it is really BS.... Because I haven't heard a single bad thing about them and everyone says they do more than rated... yet I still have the 3x40 confusing everything:cwm22:


How many fuse a 2000rms amplifier should really have?
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Postby Thoraudio » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:19 am

for 2000 watts (RMS), a class D amp would need almost 185 amps of current (at 14.4v and 75% efficiency).
whyfore is I here?
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Postby JimJ[VT] » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:53 am

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Postby KU40 » Mon Dec 04, 2006 10:43 am



yeah right, what a pile of garbage! :)
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Postby BKOLFO4 » Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:48 am

eezip wrote:SQBubble, first of all, 3 fuses at 40A each and a generous 14.4V isn't even 1800W so it can't do 2400W. It might put out 2400W dynamic [peak].


It has (6) 40 amp fuses. . . .Does that change your opinion on the output any?
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Postby almond » Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:55 am

i don't think you can really tell an amps potential by looking at the fuses though. when you do amps X voltage = wattage, what is the impedance. someone explain this for me?
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Postby almond » Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:56 am

i've clamped my amp doing 2200 watts rms and i have dual 80 amp fuses.

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